Churchill, Cathedrals, and an Unexpected Rose Garden
A birthday journey through the South Downs
Scott blending into Blenheim - Birthplace of Winston Churchill
Our journey toward the South Downs began with a visit to Blenheim Palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill and a destination Scott had long wanted to see.
The palace itself is magnificent, but what surprised me most was learning about Churchill's connection to one of my favorite historical figures. Churchill was a cousin of Consuelo Vanderbilt, the American heiress whose story helped inspire the character of Gladys Russell in HBO's The Gilded Age. As a fan of both the series and the real-life history behind it, I was delighted to discover that Consuelo is buried alongside members of the Churchill family in the quiet churchyard at Bladon.
After exploring the palace and gardens, we made our way toward Winchester.
For those familiar with Ken Follett's The Pillars of the Earth, Winchester Cathedral needs no introduction. Like many readers, we've followed the fictional journeys of Tom Builder, Philip, Jack, and Aliena for years. Seeing Winchester for ourselves felt like stepping into a place we'd already visited through the pages of a book.
Unfortunately, our own medieval pilgrimage encountered a few obstacles.
First came an encounter with an unmarked police car and a traffic citation. In Scott's defense, he had done an admirable job navigating British roads for most of the trip. We agreed to consider this a minor setback rather than a character flaw.
The second challenge was finding parking in Winchester. With dinner reservations looming and time slipping away, we reluctantly settled for a drive-by tour and continued south toward our destination for the evening: The Pig.
The Pig a deceptive name. As you can see, it is quite charming.
If you've never visited a Pig hotel, imagine a luxury farmhouse designed by someone with equal passions for antiques, gardening, and eccentric British charm.
The reception area was filled with taxidermy birds, antique books, vintage glassware, and oversized jars overflowing with root vegetables. Every corner seemed to contain something curious and delightful.
Our room was surprisingly spacious by European standards. Barnwood-lined walls, brass fixtures, and rustic details created an atmosphere that somehow managed to feel both upscale and agricultural at the same time. It was part luxury hotel, part farmhouse retreat.
Perhaps the proper term is not glamping, but "glarming."
Birthday dinner did not disappoint.
I enjoyed Chalk Stream trout served with smoked peas, bacon, and a rich fish cream sauce, while Scott chose South Downs lamb rump with creamy polenta and minted red wine. It was exactly the sort of meal you hope for when celebrating a birthday in the English countryside.
After a restful night and breakfast in the sunroom the following morning, we set off for Goodwood. But as we've learned throughout this trip, some of the best experiences happen when you leave room for the unexpected.
On a whim, we stopped in the tiny village of Amberley.
While photographing the thatched cottages and wandering the quiet streets, we met a distinguished gentleman named David Lyons, who was taking his daily walk into the village. Within minutes of meeting us, David invited us to see his rose garden.
Naturally, we accepted.
What we discovered was extraordinary.
Spread across nearly three acres, David's garden was unlike anything we had ever seen. After forty years of careful cultivation, every corner reflected a lifetime of dedication. It felt less like a private garden and more like a living work of art.
From there we visited the ancient Church of St. Michael and All Angels, a site whose origins may date back to the Saxon era, before continuing on to Arundel.
As luck would have it, our visit to Arundel coincided with Corpus Christi. https://arundelcathedral.uk/corpus-christi
Carpet of Flowers Arundel Cathedral
Inside Arundel Cathedral, volunteers had created the famous Carpet of Flowers, an intricate floral masterpiece stretching down the center aisle. Made entirely from flowers and natural materials, it is recreated each year and has become one of the region's most cherished traditions. Seeing it in person felt like stumbling into a celebration we never knew we needed.
Before leaving town, we admired Arundel Castle, the seat of the Dukes of Norfolk for more than 850 years.
One thing this trip has taught me is that England seems to have an endless supply of castles. Just when I think we've seen them all, another one appears on a hilltop, tucked into a village, or rising above a river.
There was even a castle ruin in tiny Amberley.
It's difficult to imagine the effort required to build these massive fortresses centuries ago. But perhaps that's the magic of traveling through England. History isn't confined to museums. It sits beside the road, peeks out from behind hedgerows, and occasionally appears where you least expect it.
And with that, it was finally time to continue our journey. But no post is complete without me sharing a picture of my last great cocktail. You’re welcome! Now on to Goodwood!
Cheers from South Downs y’all!
